Story
of Wool
Man first domesticated
sheep more than 10,000 years ago. The sheep provided milk, meat,
wool and skins. Nothing
was wasted when a sheep was killed. The bones and horns were used
for utensils and tools,
the gut or fastening the skins for leather.
In Biblical
times, ones wealth was measured by the number of sheep they had in their
flock. It
is believed that Roman's
introduced their fine wool sheep to Britain and Spain 2,000 years ago.
The climate in Spain
was ideal for rearing sheep and in the province of Tanaconensis the Merino
sheep was developed
by crossing the Tarentine with the Laodicean from Asia Minor. Only the
wealthy were allowed
Merino sheep, which was prized and protected. A special gift of these
sheep was made to
the King of France who kept them on his farm at Rambouillet.
In 1685,
the Huguenots immigrated to North America bringing their sheep with them.
The
restrictions on the
export of wool and yarn from England to the new world forced the settlers
to
start their own industry.
Massachusetts General Court ordered each Family to spin yarn. Each
assessed person in
the family was to spin a pound of yarn a week for thirty weeks each year.
A married
couple would often have an unmarried sister living with them. This sister
would be
responsible for spinning
for the family to pay for her keep, whence the term spinster.
Sheep
are now raised in every country of the world for the production of wool,
the leading
countries are: Australia,
New Zealand, South Africa and South America. Australia is famous for
it's Merino sheep.
The Cheviot and Shetland sheep have become well know because the fabrics
and yarns named after
them.
Wool
shares the same properties as mohair and alpaca. It has a high water absorbency
and has
the ability to produce
heat when wet. Wool will be dissolved by strong alkali but is resistant
to
acids and takes dyes
well. Wool's high elasticity allows for quick recover.
Wool comes in many spinning forms. In fleece form, the spinner has many
options as to how
the wool will be prepared.
It can be spun as is or washed. After washing te wool can be combed,
carded or spun from
the locks. Combed tops and carded rovings are commercially prepared and
are usually spun as
they are. Worsted yarn is produced from combed tops (all fibers are the
same
length and parrel)
and woollen yarns are made from carded roving (different lengths and no
alignment).
End use
and spinning method varies depending on the type of wool used and at what
age the
wool was harvested.
In the form of a lamb's fleece the coarser wool will be softer and have
more
end uses.
Each
breed of sheep produces a variety or type of wool which can be broken down
into five
categories: Double
coated, Long wool, Down wool, Medium wool and Fine wool.
DOUBLE COATED: Icelandic and Scottish Blackface are some of the breeds
that produce
double coated fleeces.
The outer coat is usually coarse, long and hair like, while the under coat
is
shorter soft down.
The outer coat is considered as rug wool and is mainly used for rugs,
tapestries and upholstery
fabrics. When dehaired the down can be as soft as some of the exotic
fibers.
LONG
WOOLS: Lincoln, Leicester, Massam (Massham), Cotsworth, Romey
and
Wenslydale are some
of the breeds that produce long wool, also called luster wool because of
the sheen. The lock
is thin, curly and very long. The wool fiber is of medium diameter. This
fiber is suitable
for outer garments, blankets etc.,
DOWN
WOOL: Suffolk, Dorset, Hampshire, Oxford and Southdown are some
of the breeds
that produce down
wool. This lofty short wool has a close crimp and a springy hand. It is
suitable for outer
garment and blankets.
MEDIUM
WOOL: Corridale (Lincoln x Merino), Columbia (Lincoln x Merino), Targhee
(Lincoln x Merino),
Falkland (Corridale cross) and Perendale (Cheviot x Romney) make up
some of the breeds
of medium wool. This wool is suitable for clothing and outer garments.
FINE
WOOL: Merino and Rambouillet have the finest wool, although it can
range from a 58's
to a Sharlee count
of over 90. It has a very tight crimp that felts very easily. This wool
is suitable
for fine clothing.
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